🟢 Water Color & Clarity
Why is my pool green?
Algae. Plain and simple. Caused by one or more of: depleted chlorine (most common in Florida summer), high CYA locking up your chlorine ("chlorine lock"), water temperatures above 85°F turbocharging algae growth, or missed weekly service.
DIY fix: Shock to 10 ppm, brush all surfaces, run pump 24 hours continuously. Pro fix: 24-hour green-to-clean recovery with Triple Guarantee.
Why is my pool cloudy?
Five main causes: (1) unbalanced chemistry — usually high pH or low chlorine, (2) failing or dirty filter, (3) high calcium hardness causing scale, (4) early algae bloom that hasn't turned green yet, (5) heavy bather load after a pool party.
Quick fix: Test pH first. If above 7.8, bring it down to 7.5 with muriatic acid. Brush, vacuum, run pump 24hr. If still cloudy, call for diagnosis.
Why is my pool water yellow or brown?
Two possibilities: (1) mustard/yellow algae (a chlorine-resistant algae species that appears as yellow-brown powder on walls), or (2) metals in the water — iron or copper — often from old plumbing or well water sources.
Fix: Yellow algae treatment for the first case. For metals, use a sequestrant + partial drain-and-refill.
Why does my pool have black spots?
Black algae — technically cyanobacteria — establishing in porous plaster. It's the hardest algae to kill because it has a protective layer AND root system that anchors into pool surface.
DIY rarely works. Professional black algae treatment uses stainless brushing + triple shock + specialty algaecide with 30-day no-return guarantee.
Why is my pool milky white or chalky?
Calcium scale. Boca Raton tap water runs 180–250 ppm calcium at the tap, and summer evaporation concentrates it. When pH drifts above 7.8, calcium precipitates out of solution and creates that chalky haze.
Fix: Test calcium hardness. Above 400 ppm + high pH = scale. Sequestrant + pH reduction + partial drain fixes it. Professional calcium removal for Diamond Brite pools.
💧 Water Level Issues
Why is my pool losing water so fast?
Normal Florida evaporation is about 1/4 inch per day. Anything more = leak. Common locations: aging plumbing fittings, pool light conduit (water seeps through the conduit), cracked shell (hairline crack), skimmer housing (deck settling pulls on housing), equipment pad (pump, filter, heater O-rings).
Diagnostic: Bucket test first. Then professional leak detection with pressure + dye testing.
Why is my pool auto-filler running constantly?
You've got a leak. The auto-filler is doing its job — replacing lost water — but at scale, you're paying for water that's escaping underground or through equipment. Typical hidden leak costs: $50–$200/month extra on water bill, plus potential structural damage.
Fix: Turn off auto-filler for 48 hours, measure water drop, call for leak detection. Don't wait — pool leaks always get worse.
🌡️ Temperature Issues
Why is my pool water so hot?
In South Florida summer, water temps naturally reach 88–92°F without a heater. Contributing factors: direct sun exposure all day, dark pool finishes that absorb more heat, warm ambient air temperatures (average Boca July = 91°F). Most owners find 85°F most comfortable — anything above becomes bath-like.
Cooling options: Run pump and water features at night, use a pool chiller ($3,500–$6,500 installed), add a pool mister/fountain, or run the heater in "cool" mode if it has one.
Why is my pool water so cold in winter?
Boca/Delray winter water can drop to 68–72°F without a heater — too cold for comfortable swimming. Ambient winter temps (January avg 67°F), less direct sun (lower sun angle), and cool nights all contribute. Most Florida pool owners add a heater to extend swim season from October through April.
Solution: Gas heater ($3,500–$5,500), heat pump ($4,500–$6,500 but cheaper to run), or solar ($4,000–$8,000, slowest heating).
🧪 Chemistry Issues
Why does my pool keep losing chlorine?
Three common causes in Florida: (1) no CYA or too-low CYA — unstabilized chlorine burns off in 2 hours at noon UV, (2) too-high CYA (above 80 ppm) — causes "chlorine lock" where chlorine is bound but appears low on tests, (3) high chlorine demand — pool has organic contamination.
Fix: Test CYA. If under 30 ppm, add stabilizer. If over 80 ppm, partial drain-and-refill. If CYA is fine, shock the pool to break through any chlorine demand.
Why does my pool smell like chlorine?
Counter-intuitive: a strong chlorine smell usually means your pool doesn't have enough free chlorine. The smell comes from chloramines — chlorine bound to contaminants like sweat, sunscreen, pee, and pool debris. The solution isn't less chlorine; it's more.
Fix: Shock the pool to 10 ppm to break chloramines. Run pump 8+ hours. Smell should be gone next morning.
Why is my pool pH always high?
Salt systems drive pH up as a by-product of electrolysis. Warm water releases CO2 which also raises pH. High alkalinity buffers pH at the high end. Any combination of these in a Florida pool = pH constantly climbing above 7.8.
Fix: Weekly (summer) or biweekly (winter) muriatic acid dosing to hold pH at 7.5. Lower alkalinity to the lower end of target (80–100 ppm) to reduce buffering.
🏊 Surface & Feel
Why is my pool foamy?
Three causes: (1) contamination from bathers — sunscreen, lotions, sweat, hair products accumulated over time; (2) high TDS (total dissolved solids above 2,500 ppm) from years without a partial drain; (3) low calcium hardness below 150 ppm.
Fix: Shock pool to 10 ppm. If foam persists, test TDS and calcium. TDS over 2,500 = partial drain. Low calcium = add calcium chloride.
Why does my pool feel rough or sandpapery?
Calcium scale built up on plaster, Diamond Brite, or pebble surface. Happens when pH has been above 7.8 for extended periods or calcium hardness has climbed above 400 ppm.
Fix: Sequestrant + pH reduction + possible bead blast on worst areas. If damage is extensive, resurfacing may be needed. Diamond Brite restoration details.
Why is my pool slippery?
Biofilm or algae starting. The slick feel means bacteria and algae are establishing on surfaces even if water looks clear. If left, green water follows in 48–72 hours.
Fix: Brush all surfaces aggressively, shock to 10 ppm, check CYA level. Biofilm forms fastest in warm pools with marginal chlorine.
⚙️ Equipment Issues
Why is my pool pump so loud?
Usually bearings wearing out or a clogged impeller. Common in pumps over 5–7 years. Cavitation (pump sucking air) also sounds loud — caused by clogged skimmer, low water level, or air leak in suction plumbing.
Fix: Check skimmer basket, check water level, check for air bubbles in pump basket (indicates suction leak). If none of those, the motor bearings need replacement — $250–$450 typical cost.
Why is my pool filter pressure so high?
Normal is 10–20 PSI. If it's climbed 10 PSI above the clean baseline, your filter needs cleaning or backwashing. High pressure reduces flow rate, strains the pump, and can cause chemistry issues.
Fix: Backwash sand/DE filter, or hose out cartridge filter. If pressure stays high after cleaning, the filter media may need replacement.
Why does my pool light have water inside?
The light fixture gasket has failed or the conduit has cracked, letting water seep in. In Florida, ground settling pulls on conduit connections over time. Water inside a pool light is an electrocution risk — stop using the pool until repaired.
Fix: Replace the entire light fixture with fresh gaskets. Consider upgrading to LED while you're at it — longer lifespan, lower energy cost. Typical cost: $400–$800.
Why does my salt system show "LOW SALT" when I just added salt?
Usually calcium scale on the cell plates fooling the sensor. Can also be a failing cell (3–5 year typical lifespan) or low water temperature (cells reduce output below 60°F).
Fix: Clean the salt cell (quarterly muriatic acid bath). If scale isn't the issue, test actual salinity with a manual meter to verify. If salinity is correct and cell is old, replace the cell.
Why won't my pool heater turn on?
Common causes in order of likelihood: (1) pilot light out (gas heater), (2) dirty filter causing low flow (heaters need flow to operate), (3) failed flow switch, (4) failed ignitor, (5) failed control board, (6) thermostat failure.
Fix: Clean filter first (free). Check error codes on heater display. Most repairs $250–$900. Full replacement: $3,500–$6,500.
Don't see your "why is my pool..." question?
Call a CPO-certified pro who's seen 10,000+ pools. Free diagnosis in Boca & Delray.
📞 Call (954) 347-1120